Last Sunday, Dominic and I cruised from Susui to nearby Munia Island. Recently abandoned, the villagers that lived here sold the island to a Japanese development firm and moved to a nearby island, Avea. They left two people behind, an older couple, to maintain a presence on the island, preventing other villages from claiming it. In the wake of Cyclone Winston, the structures were destroyed and the couple moved to Avea.
Read MoreOur other favorite part of Susui: the beach on the far side of the island. The sand was white and soft like sifted flour; sand the likes of which I haven't seen since the last time I dug my toes into a Florida beach; endless sand punctuated by volcanic rocks, impossibly huge trees and collections of driftwood, nautilus and cowry shells, and the occasional rainbow.
Read MoreDominic caught this beauty trolling in the dinghy between Susui and neighboring Munia Island. Not having much luck in the Lau, Dominic did some lure reconfiguration before heading out: heat-shrinking two double hooks together and hiding the new quad hook beneath a skirt of a large orange and pink squid lure.
Read MoreWe have spent the last five days exploring Susui, a small village just off the southern coast of Vanua Balavu. The fun began with a traditional sevusevu ceremony—we presented the waka root when we first arrived and were invited to drink kava with them the following evening.
Read MorePopped my head into the cockpit at 0630 earlier this week and found this gorgeous sunrise waiting for me. It made for an excellent start to a spectacular day—after four days in blissfully empty anchorages, we were bound for Susui, a village on a small island of the southern coast of Vanua Balavu. We had an easy afternoon of motoring into nonexistent winds and have spent the last few days exploring the beaches, reefs, and bountiful seafood with other cruisers and the most generous Fijians we’ve met yet.
Read MoreLeaving Savusavu, we cruised east along the southern edge of Vanua Levu. Motoring upwind (in an unexpected two meter swell, oy!), we spent one night in Fawn Harbor before arriving at Viani Bay, a common cruiser hangout from which to explore the Somosomo Strait and the neighboring island, Taveuni
Read MoreCruising from the Marquesas to New Zealand last season felt like going back to freshman year of college. You arrive in Nuku Hiva after 23 days at sea, brimming with excitement for new adventures, anchored next to strangers who rapidly become your cherished friends.
Read MoreWe had a perfect day of sailing as we left Namena reef: 18 knots of wind, flat seas, and an easy, three hour jaunt north toward Savusavu, the second largest town on Vanua Levu, the second largest island in Fiji.
Read MoreWent went to Namena for the reef, but we stayed for the birds. Namenalala is home to a rookery for some thousands of boobies that spend their days circling and squawking, preening and roosting.
Read MoreNamenalala was our primary destination in the Lomaivitis because the diving in the reef surrounding the islet is famously colorful.
Read MoreWe spent a week cruising the Lomaiviti Islands as we day-sailed our way between Fiji's two largest islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. The group is small and infrequently visited; there are only a handful of backpacking style hostels slung across the ten or so islands. Our first stop was Naigani. There was a horse-shoe shaped anchorage on the western edge of the island, protected by the land on one side and projecting reefs on the other two.
Read MoreAnother gem of the Yasawas—the caves at Sawa-i-Lau. One of the northerly islands in the chain, Sawa-i-Lau is unique as a limestone island in a group that is primarily basaltic. The island got its name because the caves within, the island’s primary attraction, are rumored to extend all the way from the Yasawas on the western edge of Fiji to the Lau group on the eastern edge.
Read MoreWe’ve spent the last five days cruising around the northern coast of Viti Levu. After my parents left, Dominic and I motored south through the Yasawas and back to Lautoka on the main island. We were going on three weeks without seeing groceries beyond carrots, onions, minced beef, and crackers. Not too shabby for outer island provisioning, but we were looking forward to some variety.
Read MoreOne of the treasures of the Yasawas is the Tokatokauna Pass between Naviti and Beqa Island. The strong current at high and low tide attracts the local manta ray population, who hang suspended in the stream or swim in swooping circles filtering food from the rushing water. The pass is well reported in all the guidebooks, and resorts nearby offer guided tours. As we sailed north through the Yasawas with my parents, Tokatokauna was an attraction we couldn't miss. We anchored in Cuvu Bay, an empty cove about half a mile from the pass.
Read MoreMy parents are leaving tomorrow! We have had so many adventures in the last few weeks exploring the Yasawas—swimming with manta rays and leopard sharks, diving in caves, kayaking in heavenly blue lagoons. My dad has been with us for eight weeks, an invaluable crew member on our passage from New Zealand to Fiji; my mom has been with us for three, an invaluable source fun as we have cruised between islands.
Read MoreWe hopped to the north end of Yalobi Bay after a few days hanging out near the village hoping the anchorage there would be less exposed the easterly swell that had caused us a few unsettled nights.
Read MoreOur first stop in the Yasawas was Waya, the southern most island in the chain. We anchored in a small bay near the pass between southern Waya and Wayaleilei. There was a village on the beach, and we were planning to spend a few days snorkeling and exploring.
Read MoreSince arriving in Fiji, we have enjoyed nearly four straight weeks of gorgeous weather, a nearly unheard of streak in a tropical climate. But the strong gusts have caught up with us, and a small front is expected to roll through in the next 24 hours, so we are relaxing on the boat.
Read MoreAfter enjoying three nights in Mana, we pulled up the hook and headed north to the outer Mamanuca islands. We anchored in Navadra, a semi-circular bay enclosed by small, sandy islands. We had the place largely to ourselves. There was one other boat at anchor when we arrived that promptly left, and a curious flurry of small fishing boats, which seemed to be full of locals carrying some sort of gear on and off the island.
Read MoreAt 5:50 am on Thursday morning, my mom landed at Nadi airport in Fiji, and since her arrival, life aboard Helios has never been more fun. We had moored the boat in Port Denarau, a harbor on Viti Levu catering to cruisers and a slew of resorts on the mainland, the night before. After picking her up, we brunched on croissants in the cockpit. Mom took a much deserved nap after her 15 hour flight, while we cruised out to the yacht club at Musket Cove.
Read More
