On Saturday, we visited another modest Samoan backyard. Walking along a jungle glade to the seashore, we found a place where the earth opens to a tranquil swimming hole carved within the lava rock and ferns.
The site was created by two sinkholes in the lava, connected by an underground cave, and fed by a tunnel to the sea.
To Sua is more mystical fairy grotto than trench. Descending the ladder, it seemed like any cares we had stayed at ground level, and we submerged ourselves in the realm of languorous mermaids and sirens.
And there we passed the morning, swimming and exploring and sunning ourselves, in what may be the most tranquil place on Earth.