Just north of Cape Palliser there is a small rocky cove that serves as a nursery and playground, or rookery, as it's known, for a colony of fur seals, a species whose numbers are making a huge resurgence these days after being nearly hunted to extinction.  

We watched them nurse and stretch, dive in and out of wading pools, compete for the most comfortable rocks, and deliberate over which rocks were just too high to make suitable diving platforms.